Throughout my jewelry career, one of my favorite parts is making custom pieces — starting from an idea or a concept or a story and going from there. The best projects are when a client talks about a story and then wants a piece made to symbolize that in one way or another.
I have made it all, from a hex nut design diamond engagement rings to a gold necklace featuring a sun and a bullet hole to dog name tags in the shape of a bow tie.
A custom piece is one of the many creative ways you can make an idea come to life, have something unique to you — a piece you cannot get anywhere else the way you picture it.
How do you start?
Having a vision board for what you like — pictures, ideas, details you want, previous designs you enjoyed, and maybe even a preliminary sketch. Research the metals and tones you like, stone shades and types of gems and other features.
Choose to work with a designer, artist or brand whose portfolio or previous work you like. Jewelry is all about the vibe — are you going for traditional, trendy, moody, organic, timeless or a mix of styles?
When to reach out
Custom takes longer to produce because there is a design intent period — back and forth between the custom team and designer. This might take a day or two weeks until the vision is clear and there is a sketch and a clear plan for production. Communication is key — there must be honest and open dialogue as to what you like and what you don't.
And finally, cost
Custom implies expensive — but that is not exactly true. Custom usually means more resources for a one-off piece, however, this is not always the case if you work with the creator and your budget to see what can get done.
The cost of a piece comes down to material cost, studio costs, and labor. One expense that gets overlooked is the actual cost to make a piece — to make one single piece there are multiple stages, from the craftsperson who puts it together to the polisher to the setter who places each stone individually.
For my studio, all work is done locally and internally in NYC. This allows for check-ins, adjustments, quality assurance, and quicker turnaround.
The standard payment structure is 50% total cost upfront before production and 50% once the piece has been completed. This gives security to both parties — initial funding to start the project and the assurance the piece will be delivered as promised.
Expect a minimum of three to four weeks, and longer for larger or more complicated projects. The most important part: you are happy with the result and excited about it. A custom piece is something very personal — and thus you are the most important client.
Custom engagement ring featuring pavé and a natural oval diamond